Stone Setting

Setting stones always begins with cutting a "seat" for the stone. A seat is a cavity shaped in the negative of the stone pavilion being set. Once the stone can sit down deep enough into the metal, a "bearing" is cut around the outer edge of the seat. This cut will allow the girdle to sit slightly below the metal that will eventually be pushed over it. For thicker girdles, a larger bearing may be required to prevent putting excess force on the stone when the metal is moved.

How that metal is moved differs depending on the setting style.

In the case of pre-cut prongs, the prongs would be bent over the stone using pliers and then shaped with various tools to the final desired look. This setting style is used for center and side stones; pre-cut bright cut channels; and prong set meleč diamonds.

For hand-cut prongs, the metal encompassing the stone is notched and bits of metal are "curled" over the stone using a graver tool. The force of pushing the cut metal over the girdle acts as tension to secure the setting even more. The bits of metal are shaped using a beading tool, giving them a smooth, polished, hemisphere appearance. This setting style is used for bright cut channels; pavč; and french cut prongs.

Channel setting, gypsy setting, and bezel setting are similar in that the metal holding the stone is hammered over the girdle to secure the stone. Various files, grinding wheels, and burnishing tools are used to make the resultant edges smooth, clean, and consistent. This style of setting (if done properly) can be the most secure way of setting a stone.